Shishapangm
is one of the lovely mountain of Tibet,
which lies in its autonomous region, known
by the Tibetans as “the big grassy
field", it is an extremely beautiful
and provides awe inspiring vistas along
the Himalayan range. Only very few people
in the world have an idea about the Shishapangma
before Chinese opened Tibet to the western
summiteers in 1978 A.D. The Tibetans regard
it as the holy mountain. It is the youngest
among fourteen mountains above 8000m that
lies in high Himalayan ranges.
It is simultaneous the original route as
followed by the first western expedition
from the year 1978 despite missing larger
technical difficulties stunning adventure
can be taken, which lets mounting a 8000ers
expect nevertheless with the necessary weather
luck and the support of some experienced
Sherpas.
Route: Groups meet in Kathmandu initially where
a few days are spent in preparation before
commencing the journey along the Kathmandu
Lhasa highway to Nyalam the first major
settlement in Tibet situated at 3750 meters.
We spend 2 nights under canvass for acclimatization
(day hikes to higher altitude). On our third
day in Tibet we proceed along the friendship
highway for further 2 hours or so crossing
the high pass of Lablung-La 5070 m. soon
after the pass we turn left and follow a
grass track which leads to Shisapangma Base
Camp (approximately 4 hours). Camp is prepared.
The following day is spent in preparation
for the climb to come. There should time
for some day excursions around the Base
Camp. The next day, soon after breakfast
we head up to our advance Base Camp. We
will spend either 2 or 3 nights here depending
on group needs. The following 27 days are
spent attempting the summit and returning
to Base Camp.
The
next day, we spend cleaning Base Camp (over
night) before our return journey to Kathmandu.
Camp 1 - 6,730m – After 6-7 hours
walk we reach in camp 2 through crossing
many snow slopes by fixing ropes in the
places of crevassed.
Camp 2 - 7,045m – After 5-6 hours
we reach camp 3 through steep ascent leading
to very gentle ground below the North West
ridge.
Camp 3 - 7,400m – From Camp 3, it
takes 9-12 hours to reach on the summit.
The situation of the groups/climbers’
progress and the condition of their physical
fitness and also the favorable condition
of the weather depends the climbing ahead.
The North West normal route to Shishapangma
takes us up easy angled snow slopes up to
35 degrees with one steeper section. The
necessary lines will be fixed and placed
on the steeper or crevassed sections.
The
first 7400 meters is fairly straightforward,
little more than a steady push to camp II.
The following 700 meters requires commitment
as we traverse the North Ridge which gradually
leads us to the summit. This climb provides
brilliant mountains views especially of
the Jugal and Langtang Himal ranges.
Some times the extra additional days are
also required for acclimatization at different
places until climbers succeeds the summit.
If the climber succeeds the mountaineering
early than the scheduled tenure they may
leave the base camp before the prescribed
time as well.
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