Mera Peak Climbing

16 +

Age

Nepal

Country

March to Nov

Dates

21 Days

Duration

Climbing

Activities

Mera Peak Climbing is the highest of the permitted “Trekking Peaks” in Nepal. The trek begins by flying into the heart of the Himalaya to the village of Lukla. From here you will cross a high pass into a remote valley and steadily acclimate, as you have to move toward base camp & establish a high camp on the glacier from where you will attempt the summit.

DEPARTURE/RETURN LOCATION

Kathmandu

JOIN GROUP

1 before departure from Kathmandu.

SERVICE INCLUDES

Transportation to starting point and from ending point

Lodge trek with all meals during normal trekking days, and full-support camping trek with meals prepared by cook, and accommodation in sleeping tent during climbing days

National park Conservation fees

TIMS fee (Trekkers Information Management System fee)

Services of an experienced English speaking trekking-cum-climbing guide, cook, and porters.

Sleeping bag and down jacket (if necessary).

Accommodation, meals, insurance, equipment, and allowances of guide and staff.

Climbing special permit fee.

Climbing guide fee.

All applicable taxes and service charges.

SERVICE DOES NOT INCLUDE

Any international and domestic airfare

Any accommodation and meals in Kathmandu

Bottled drinks (mineral water, any cold drinks, and alcoholic drinks).

Personal travel insurance.

Expenses of personal nature such as tips for guide, porter and driver, laundry, bar bill, telephone calls etc.

Medical and emergency evacuation charges.

Liability for expenses against sickness, flight cancellation, road blockage, accidents and other occurrence beyond our control

Garbage disposal charge (which is refundable after your climb)

Respective expenses if one returns earlier from the trip due to sickness or emergency purpose.

Personal equipment for climbing such as Harness, Jumer, Carbine’s, Crampons, Ice axe (1 per person), Gaiters, Rope (Minimum 50 meters), Water proof down Jacket, Down pants (water proof), Sunglasses, Sun hat, normal trekking booth, plastic trekking booth for climbing etc.

Any other services or optional activities not mentioned above in the included list.

While climbing Mera Peak, you will have excellent views of Makalu, Everest, Lhotse and other spectacular peaks. This is a great trek and climb in an ancient land where Sherpas still graze yaks, cook on yak dung fires and live a very simple life. Porters to make our trip more enjoyable and culturally interesting will carry our food and equipment. By its standard route from the Mera La, the ascent is technically straightforward; however, after a heavy fall of snow or when the maze of crevasses are open, the way can be long and demanding.

Far and above the most rewarding aspect of a trip to Mera is a chance to venture into a little-visited and as yet unspoiled region of Nepal where the hill one the way to Mera, mountain flower sides are still densely forested and a need to be self-sufficient is essential. There is also, of course, the pleasure of going above 6.000m.

There are many approaches to Mera; some are easy and some require the crossing of high and difficult passes, making a trek to the peak a real mountaineering adventure for which effort is rewarded with spectacular scenery and ultimately one of the finest viewpoints in Nepal.

Mera peak is the perfect trip for the mountaineer who wants to make the most of his / her himalayan experiences by living in unique culture and climbing in traditional Himalayan alpine one the way, of Mera peak style.

A Sherpa guide (Sirdar), cook team will support your trek and climb. We spend a significant amount of time acclimating to new altitudes to increase safety and comfort levels. We cover basic mountaineering skills on the glacier prior to your climb.

Outline Itinerdary:

Day 01: Arrival Day[1300m/4264ft]

Day 02:Kathmandu Valley sightseeing and trip preparation

Day 03: Fly to Lukla and trek to Paiya (Chutok) [2730m/8954ft]:3-4 hrs

Day 04: Paiya to Pangkoma [2850m/93,48ft]: 5-6 hrs

Day 05: Pangkoma to Nigmsa (Shibuche)[2745m/90,003ft]: 4-5 hrs

Day 06: Nigmsa (Shibuche) to Chetrakhola [3150m/10332ft]: 7-8 hrs

Day 07: Chetrakhola to Kothe [3600m/11808ft]: 6-7 hrs

Day 08: Kothe to Tangnang [4,350m/14,270ft]: 3-4 hrs

Day 09: Acclimatization Day: Hiking to Charpate Himal Glacier

Day 10: Tangnang to Khare [5,045m/16,486ft]: 2-3 hrs

Day 11: Khare to Mera Base Camp [5300m/17,384ft]: 3-4 hrs

Day 12: Mera Base Camp to High camp [5,780m/18,958ft]: 4-5 hrs

Day 13: Mera High Camp to Summit[6,461m/21,1907ft] and back to Khare [5045m/16,547ft]: 8-9 hr

Day 14: Reserve Day for Contingency

Day 15: Khare to Kothe [3600m/11808ft]: 4-5 hrs

Day 16: Kothe to Thuli Kharka: 5-6 hrs

Day 17: Thuli Kharka to Lukla: 6-7 hrs

Day 18: Fly to Kathmandu

Day 19: Departure Day

Arrival Day, transfer hotel - 1370m/4494ft

Upon arrival at Kathmandu Tribhuwan International Airport, Nature Trail Trekking and Expeditions Private Limited (Nature Trail) will greet you and assist you to the Hotel. We can meet later on that day (if possible) or the next day to take you to our head office to brief you on your upcoming trekking and climbing with Nature Trail. At that time we will introduce you to your trekking /climbing guide. If your flight arrives on time, we will take you to one of the most popular local restaurants with delicious Nepalese food, cultural music and ethnic dance. This will give you a glimpse into the different ethnic groups of the country. If you arrive late in the evening we can do this the next day.

Trip preparation/Kathmandu Valley sightseeing

After breakfast, you will begin a city tour of Kathmandu where you will see the main attractions of the valley. On this tour you will visit the Boudhnath Stupa, Pashupatinath temple, Swyambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple), and Kathmandu Durbar Square (the old palace). After finishing the city tour, we will meet again to check your clothing and trekking equipment (sleeping bag, down jacket and trekking boots). This evening will be spent in Kathmandu.

Fly to Lukla and trek to Paiya (Chutok) - 2730m/8954ft: 3-4 hrs

Early morning after breakfast, we transfer to domestic airport to fly to Lukla. After an adventurous 40-minute flight above breathtaking green and white mountains, we reach Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla. This is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world culminating in a dramatic landing on a hillside surrounded by high mountains peaks. At the airport, we meet our other crew members. We get time to stroll around while the guide divides and manages baggage to be carried by porters. We start our trek down from Lukla. It will make sense to fly up to Lukla for acclimatization and walk down. We walk through the jungle down to Surke then a bit ahead we have lunch at Pakhapani or ahead nearby. Continuing ahead through many traditional villages, jungles, and hills, we gradually reach the vicinity of Paiya for the first night’s camp. We see number of peaks from here such as Knogde Ri, Khatang, Tang Ragi Tu and other peaks above 7 thousand meters from Paiya. Overnight at Paiya.

Paiya to Pangkoma - 2850m/93,48ft: 5-6 hrs

After breakfast, we march a little down until we reach wooden bridge and then carefully we have to go ahead through the slippery trail to cross Kari La Hill (pass). We have our lunch in the village ahead and start up walking through the rhododendron and bamboo forest through the narrow mountain trail. We need to keep our cameras ready with full charge to catch the outstanding views of Dudhkoshi River valley and Dudh Kund Himal before reaching the farming and trading village of Pangkongama for night`s rest.

Pangkoma to Ramailo Danda (Shibuche)- 2745m/90,003ft: 5-6 hrs

The trail descends the rock-strewn path leading to the rhododendron forest. We come across a lot of Mani walls through the trail. Passing again through hills, ridges and teahouses, we start downwards and have lunch around there in village nearby. Mesmerizing views of the south face of Mera Peak (6064m/19890ft) and Naulekh Peak awaiting our insight ahead. The trail zigzags through forested areas and then descends steeply. We experience the most interesting and charming feelings as we walk past forests of pine and rhododendron to reach Ramailo Danda (Shibuche) where we camp for the night’s rest

Ramailo Danda (Shibuche) to Chetrakhola - 3150m/10332ft: 6-7 hrs

After breakfast, we start up though a steep and slope trail through narrow and typical mountain trail, a bit complicated ahead through rhododendron and bamboo forests, we pass in the course of landslides and down we reach to the stream. By the side of the crystal clear stream we have our lunch today. Straight ahead and up through the rhododendron forests we may encounter wild animals if we are lucky. A little down through the bamboo jungle and past a nice stone cave by the side of a river, we will camp for the night’s rest. Overnight at Chhatra Khola.

Chetrakhola to Kothe - 3600m/11808ft: 5-6 hrs

Chirping birds wake us up early in the morning. We start after breakfast and reach a fine vantage point of the Hinku Valley where we line around in the splendor of nature surrounding us. Straight through the bamboo and pine forest in the narrow trails while enjoying the views of Mera and the Hinku Valley, there is possibility of encountering with mountain wild animals like sloth bear, jungle cat, etc., among the tall pine trees. Past Tashing Dingma we find shops and teahouses where we have lunch. We continue ahead by the ridge of the river in the Hinku valley all the way up and reach Kothe where we have the night’s rest in a camp. Overnight in Kothe

Kothe to Tangnang - 4,350m/14,270ft: 3-4 hrs

Today is another short-trek day in which we trek along the ridge of the Hinku Khola in the shadow of Mera Peak. We take lunch at Gondishung, the summer herders’ settlement in the west bank of the Hinku Drangka. Beyond Gondishung we pass a 200 year-old Lungsumgba Gompa where we can find Mera peak scripted in rock along with its route to reach Mera. We pray for our successful ascent of Mera Peak in the boulder of the Gompa offering incense. A short walk takes us to Thagnag, which is a summer grazing area with the primitive lodges and shops. Overnight in Thagnag at the camp.

Acclimatization Day: Hiking to Tangnang Ri

Today is our rest day. It is not recommend to stay idle although it is a rest day instead we have to stay active to be ready for next day’s adventure. So after breakfast, we hike for about 5 hours up to Tangnang Ri. Seen very close from the Thangnag, Charpate Himal is regarded holy by the Sherpa community and is worshiped by traditional Sherpas of the mountains. We will observe Mera North very close and outstanding from here. After an hour’s pleasant hike downwards, we will be back at the camp at Thangnang. Overnight at Thangnang.

Tangnang to Khare - 5,045m/16,486ft: 3-4 hrs

We head towards Mera Base Camp at Khare. We follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka, which offers spectacular views of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines and to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers and then climbs more steeply to our camping spot at Khare. The camping experience at Khare is something that would cherish us throughout our life. It is pleasure to view beautiful North face of Mera Peak from our campsite at Khare. Overnight at Khare.

Khare to Mera Base Camp - 5300m/17,384ft : 2-3 hrs

Today after breakfast, we walk through boulder strewn course to reach Base Camp of Mera Peak. We have to march through steep route (about 260 meters ) and it takes around 2 to 3 hours to reach Base Camp. Upon reaching there after a short rest accompanied with our lunch, we start ice climbing training with our climbing guide. Inexperienced climbers need to learn much more today. After about 2-3 hours training, we might choose to go to Mera La. However, as we will be taking the route to High Camp through Mera La the next day, we might opt to rest at our camp at Base camp today admiring the eye-catching views the area offers.

Mera Base Camp to High camp - 5,780m/18,958ft: 4-5 hrs

We take the route through Mera La to reach the Mera High Camp today. You need to walk through rock-strewn area for about two hours while making your way to Mera High Camp and this can be a bit hazardous if it has recently snowed, as there are a number of crevasses here. We make our way to the top of the rock band, which is marked by a large cairn. We set up a high camp and enjoy rest of the day the sunrise and sunset view along with the Mt. Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and south face of Lotshe, Nuptse, Chamlang and Baruntse are outstanding and seems like they are piercing the skyline. We overnight in Mera High Camp.

Mera High Camp to Summit - 6,461m/21,1907ft: and back to Khare - 5045m/16,547ft: 8-9 hr

This is really a big day. Our crew will wake up around 1 a.m. for preparation. You should also wake up around 2.30 am and you will have very early breakfast today. After breakfast, your group will put on crampons and rope and set up for special journey to the summit. If you are a well-acclimatized group, it takes around 4-6 hours to reach the summit of Mera central for you. From the summit can be seen the magnificent views of Mt. Everest (8,848m/29,021ft), Cho-Oyu (8,210m/26,928ft), Lhotse (8,516m/27,935ft), Makalu (8,463m/27,760ft), Kangchenjunga (8,586m/28,165ft), Nuptse (7,855m/25,765ft), Chamlang (7,319m/24,010ft), Baruntse (7 ,129m 23,383ft) Ama Dablam (6,812m/22,343ft) Kangtega (6,779m/22,235) and many peaks over six thousand. After achieving the summit, you retrace your steps down to high camp. After having a rest accompanied with some hot soups/tea at the high camp, we will continue down to Khare for the night’s rest. You will really find this day really long but inspirational one for your life! Overnight at Khare.

Reserve Day for Contingency

There is no such guarantee that we can get quite a favorable weather on our planned day for the summit (day 13), so this day is used as a contingency in case if we are unable to summit the Mera on day 13 due to bad weather condition or some other reasons. If weather became exceptionally unfavorable we wisely have to postpone the program of summiting the peak on day 13 for toady (Day 14). Sometimes somebody in the group may get some problems in acclimatizing well enough to make the ascent; the day can be used in that condition too. If the trip goes smoothly, we do not need this spare day.

Khare to Kothe - 3600m/11808ft: 4-5 hrs

After a great success of the expedition to Mt. Mera we descend to Hinku valley to Kothe for our overnight stop at camp. Leaving behind the outstanding Himalayan background, you arrive Kothe. The night we enjoy with local wines and foods and relax at the camp and overnight.

Kothe to Thuli Kharka: 5-6 hrs

Today, we again climb up about two hours through the lush forest on the west side of the Hinku Valley to Thuli Kharka. It’s nice walk through the red Rhododendron forest with beaten trail of Himalaya of Nepal. We observe the wide range of Mera peaks, Mera North, Mera Central, Mera South from Thuli Kharka. Overnight in Thuli Kharka.

Thuli Kharka to Lukla: 6-7 hrs

Two hours up from Thuli Kharka we walk to reach Zatrwa La pass. After crossing the pass we see beautiful view of Lukla valley. Cho yu, Kongde peak, Numbur Himal, Kusum Khangru and so many others. From Zatrwa La we walk all the way down to Chutanga and then straight forward easy walk takes us to Lukla village where we conclude the trekking and this evening we enjoy the last dinner in mountain with our crew. Overnight in teahouse.

Fly to Kathmandu

Normally flights are always in the morning due to the weather. So guide will do all airport formalities by the time you can have a breakfast at the lodge. Your luggage will get in to the airport already with the help of our sherpas and porters. Once guide get news about your flight arrival at Lukla airport, will call you to watch how the small aircraft get lands in to the small airstrip. After quick photograph, get in to the airport and straight away get in to the plane to fly out to Kathmandu. Once you are at the airport at Kathmandu, guide will assist to get in to your hotel by private vehicle.

Departure Day

Today is the last day of the trip with us. If you would like to extend your holiday with Nature Trail, we are happy to make further arrangement, otherwise we will assist you to the airport as per your flight departure time. If your flight is late evening, you can do last minute shopping or manage your photos of the trip then final departure from the airport.

Mera Climbing Route & Best Time

The standard route of Mera peak climbing in Nepal is via the North face, it is relatively even for beginner climbers. It is a nice way to experience an expedition in Nepal. This north face climbing route involves crossing a high altitude glacier which means that snow conditions are crucial for safety and a chance for a successful summit. The summit day is long and strenuous; hence a high level of fitness is required for a safe and successful ascent. September-December & March to June is the best climbing periods to climb. Due to its long climbing season, relatively easy route and spectacular scenery from its summit, Mera Peak is a very popular objective for many commercial expeditions in Nepal. At the same time due to its remoteness a Mera peak expedition offers a relatively private climbing experience in Nepal.

Spring (March, April, May) and autumn (September, October November) are the most favorable seasons for Mera peak climbing Nepal. Nature Trail may operate the trip even in winter season if some climbers are interested in taking on that challenge. After a 35 minute mountain flight you will arrive in Lukla. The following day you will begin trekking to Mera Peak via the Hinku valley. Most of the time “Nature Trail” will go directly up to high camp at Khare, however we also established Mera La base camp at an elevation of 5400 meters for those climbers who do not have previous experience or could not move faster for some reason.

Why to climb with Nature Trail Trekking and Expeditions?

Nature Trail organizes a climbing training course which covers various aspects of climbing techniques and skills, glacier travel, ascending and descending fixed rope to ensure that our clients have the necessary climbing skills and confidence before setting out for the himalayan adventure. Mera high camps are usually fixed at an elevation of 5800 meters behind a large vertical rock wall. The summit day starts early in morning around 1:00-2:00AM. Nature Trail has a 99% of summit success rate on this peak and we ensure 99% safe practices from our staff. The mera peak climbing cost offering by NTT is very competitive in the mountaineering business with nominal service charge. Our professional climbing team can modify the Mera peak climbing itinerary if necessary to change according to the field situation. The summit plan and practice tends to the pre-given itinerary but if necessary it can be changed.