Mount Lhotse Expedition better known as “south peak climbing” and part of the Everest massif is the fourth highest mountain peak in the earth with an altitude of 8516m/27940ft. Lhotse has 3 summits, main summit at 8,516m, Lhotse Middle (East) at 8,414m and Lhotse Shar at 8,383m. Lhotse is best known for its proximity to Mt. Everest and the fact that climbers ascending the standard route on that peak spend some time on its northwest face. It is the smallest prominence, only 610m, of all 8000m peaks. Lhotse is however famous for its tremendous and dramatic south face. The south face of Lhotse raises 3.2km within 2.25km horizontal distance making it the steepest face of this size in the world. It is extremely difficult climb and rarely attempted. The South Face of Lhotse is one of the largest mountain faces in the world.
The primary route on Mt. Lhotse is via Everest’s South Col. but by 1955, despite the activity on Mt. Everest, Lhotse was the highest unclimbed peak in the world. It was first climbed by the Swiss duo of F. Luchsinger and E.Reiss in 1956 on the West Face. The South Face of Mt. Lhotse though attempted many times was successfully climbed only in 1984 by a Czech. On May 12, 1979 Lhotse Shar summit was reached and the middle summit was climbed only on May 23, 2001.
Day 01: Arrival and Transfer
Day 02: Preparation and Briefing for Departure to Everest Region
Day 03: Kathmandu-Lukla Scenic Flight and short trek
Day 04: Phakding to Namche Bazaar Trek.
Day 05: Rest day for acclimatization
Day 06: Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche Trek
Day 07: Tyangboche to Dingboche Trek
Day 08: Dingboche to Lobuche Trek
Day 09: Rest for acclimatization at Lobuche
Day 10: Lobuche to Gorakshep Trek
Day 11: Gorakshep to Base camp Trek.
Day 12-56: Lhotse Summit Climbing
Day 57: Trek down from base camp via Lobuche to Dingboche
Day 58: Dingboche to Tengboche trek
Day 59: Tengboche to Namche Bazaar Trek
Day 60: Namche Bazaar to Lukla Trek.
Day 61: Fly Back to Kathmandu.
Day 62: The Leisure day and sightseeing
Day 63: Transfer for Final Departure
Lhotse Expedition Full Board Service:
On full board services, we provide every services that required to summit and return starting from Kathmandu and end at Kathmandu. See below details on service includes section.
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Arrival and Transfer
Preparation and Briefing for Departure to Everest Region
Kathmandu-Lukla Scenic Flight and short trek
Phakding to Namche Bazaar Trek.
Rest day for acclimatization
Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche Trek
Tyangboche to Dingboche Trek
Dingboche to Lobuche Trek
Rest for acclimatization at Lobuche
Lobuche to Gorakshep Trek
Gorakshep to Base camp Trek.
Lhotse Summit Climbing
Trek down from base camp via Lobuche to Dingboche
Dingboche to Tengboche trek
Tengboche to Namche Bazaar Trek
Namche Bazaar to Lukla Trek.
Fly Back to Kathmandu.
The Leisure day and sightseeing
Transfer for Final Departure
Mt. Lhotse Expeditions:
In the Expedition of Mt. Lhotse, Lhotse Base Camp is located beside the Khumbu Glacier, same as Everest Base Camp. The section during the climb which has been unanimously declared the most dangerous is the Khumbu Icefall. This beautiful massif also holds immense promise as it is little developed and offers fascinating opportunities.
Mt. Lhotse Face and Route:
The commercial route is from its north side via Khumbu icefall sharing its length with Everest south route. The south face is one of the most impressive walls in Himalayas. The first expedition from the south side was Yuogo Slavian leading by A.Kunaver. They selected the left side of the wall but they manage to only get to 8100 meters. Three police expedition tried to climb through the left wall in 1985, 1987 and 1989, the highest point they reach was 8300 meters.
The western flank of Lhotse is known as the Lhotse Face. Any climber bound for the South Col on Everest must climb this 1,125m wall of glacial blue ice. This face rises at 40 and 50 degree pitches with the occasional 80 degree bulges. Two rocky sections called the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face.
The south face was finally climbed in 1990 by Russian expedition few months after Cesen’s climb. They describe the wall as impossible to be climbed by a single person.
Mt. Lhotse Expedition Base Camp Service:
In the Base Camp
Nature Trail Trekking and Expeditions provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC and during the climb. Our objective is to provide a good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.
Our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day.
Nature Trail provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board and base-camp service. In the base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
We provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
Our Leader and camp manager as well as climbing Sherpas have an extensive experience of multiple climbs to 8000m peaks. They will ensure cooperation with other companies and Base Camp organization. The Base Camp is a cooperative to ensure contribution from all operators to the task of route fixing to ensure the safety of climbers from ABC to the summit.
Lhotse commercial route via Khumbu icefall and Northwest couloirs:
The route is technically a strenuous trekking route with a little objective danger once past the Khumbu icefall, apart of few crevasses and seracs bridged by ladders, couple short ice cliffs around camp 3 and rock sections protected with fixed lines. There is an obvious danger of high altitude sickness complications and changeable, unpredictable mountain weather.
The Khumbu Icefall is a steep glacier with obvious implication of large crevasses and treacherous unstable seracs making navigation complicated and riddled with high objective danger of falling ice. This is the most dangerous part of the climb. At the beginning of the climbing period, climbing Sherpa set the route through the icefall installing ladders across crevasses and along vertical seracs ice walls for efficient and easy climbing. These arrangements make climb of the Khumbu ice fall possible, efficient and relatively safe especially early morning before the sunrise, when the ice structure is well frozen. Khumbu ice fall is very dangerous in the afternoon due to its western aspect.
Camp 1 (6065m) is located on the top of Khumbu icefall; it is a desolate and exposed place mainly used as rest and transition location on the way to camp 2 (6750m). The glacier between camp 1 and 2 flattens but there are still large crevasses close to camp 1, which are also fixed with ladders.
Camp 2 is located in a lateral moraine at the bottom of west ridge. It is a very safe and sheltered location with tremendous views on Lhotse. All companies set-up their main climbing camp for the duration of climbing period with tents for individual climbers, the kitchen and dining tents. Camp 2 is main acclimatization camp and the base for camp 3 acclimatization climb and the final summit attempt.
Camp 3 (7100m) is located on small ledge on the Lhotse wall. One has to cross the glacier to the right side before 40deg 600m climb on the compact snow field. The route is safe with couple of short less then 3m ice cliffs, which climbing Sherpas set up with fixed ropes.
Camp 4 (7920m) located near South Col is the last camp; it is easily accessible by majority of climbers without supplementary oxygen. There are two rock sections to navigate before camp 4: Yellow Bands, interlayer marble, phyllite and semi-schist rocks and Geneva Spur, an anvil shaped rib of black rocks; they are again set-up with fixed ropes.
From camp 4 the route enters 500m couloirs about 40deg along a mix of pack snow, ice and some rock.