DOUBLE PEAK EXPEDITION
Mera Peak via (Amphu Laptsa) Island peak Climbing
Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing is an elite climbing adventure that takes you to the summit of two of Nepal’s most popular trekking peaks. It is a challenging high-altitude journey that takes you across the dramatic river valleys in the Khumbu Region. Walk across thick jungles, picturesque Sherpa villages, rhododendron forests, and high suspension bridges. Traverse high mountain passes, glaciers, and stunning mountain lakes. To reach the twin summits, you navigate dangerous crevasses and climb steep ice walls. Enjoy close up views of 8000 and 7000-meter peaks.
You begin your journey from Kathmandu with flight to Lukla, the ‘Gateway to Everest.’ You walk across the wild and uninhabited Hinku valley to Mera Peak Base Camp. This part of the trail lies off-the-beaten-path and trekkers rarely visit this area. Enjoy walking in solitude while taking in the pristine views of the forest and snow-covered peaks. You spend a night camping at Mera High Camp before making the final summit push to Mera Peak. The summit of Mera Peak is the highest point of your trip.
After your summit, you push ahead and cross the Hongu Valley. En route is the challenging and difficult crossing of Amphu Laptsa pass. This is one of the most dangerous mountain passes in the Himalayas. Technical climbing skills are required to cross this pass. Using fixed ropes, jumar and harness you climb up the ice shelves and cross the ridge. The steep descent over a rocky slope is challenging even for seasoned climbers.
Walking across the Imja Glacier, you reach the Island Peak Base Camp. Island Peak, which is locally known as Imja Tse, was named by Eric Shipton as it looks like a frozen island rising above the Imja Valley. From the base camp, we attempt to reach the summit of Island Peak via a straightforward route. There are crevasses en route where we use ladders to get across. The last section of the climb involves using a fixed rope to climb up an ice wall to reach the summit. Surrounded by the giants of the Himalayas, it feels awesome to stand on the top. It is a grueling but satisfying descent to Chukkung.
You return to Lukla via the Dudh Koshi valley. The stops at the Sherpa villages of Pangboche, Namche, and Lukla will give you an insight into the Sherpa lifestyle and culture. During your journey, you will be staying at teahouses and tented camps. While camping the local crew will prepare nutritious and healthy meals for you.
The best seasons for Mera and Island Peak Climbing 23 – 24 days are spring and autumn. The weather remains stable and clear most of the time during these seasons which makes climbing easy. It is also possible to take this trip during early winter if you are not very concerned about the extreme cold.
This is a challenging adventure which people with experience of high altitude trekking and hiking can do. A high degree of physical fitness and endurance level is a must. The previous climbing experience though not required, will be helpful. Novice climbers will be taught basic climbing skills at the pre-climb training camp. An experienced climbing and trekking crew led by a Sherpa climbing guide with more than two decades of experience will help you achieve your goal. Safety procedures will be strictly followed. All permits are included in the package.
Highlights of Mera and Island Peak Climbing
- Climb two of the finest Treking Peaks in Khumbu region; Mera Peak and Island Peak
- Crossing Amphu Labtsa Pass is a challenging and beautiful expereince
- Trekking in the remote Hinku and Khumbu valley
- Excellent Trekking and Climbing experience in the Himalaya of Nepal.
- Enhance and test your mountaineering skills with this challenging expereicne
- Well set up support and logistics at camps during the camping period
- Trek and climb with our certified and experienced Sherpa Climbing Guides
|Day 1||Arrive in Kathmandu (1,400m/4,593ft) and Transfer to hotel|
|Day 2||Trip preparation in Kathmandu|
|Day 3||Fly to Lukla and trek to Paiya (2,730m/8,956ft)|
|Day 4||Trek to Panggom (2,846/9,337ft) 6-7 hours trek|
|Day 5||Trek to Ramailo Danda (3,276m/10,748ft) 5-6 hours trek|
|Day 6||Trek to Chhatra Khola (2,800m/9,186ft) 4-5 hours trek|
|Day 7||Trek to Kothe (3,691m/12,109ft) 6-7 hours trek|
|Day 8||Trek to Thaknak (4,358m/14,297ft) 3-4 hours trek|
|Day 9||Trek to Khare (5,045m/16,486ft) 2-3 hours|
|Day 10||Acclimatization Day in Khare and Pre-Climb Training|
|Day 11||Trek to Mera High Camp (5,780m/18,958ft) 5-6 hours trek|
|Day 12||Summit Mera Peak (6,461m/21,1907ft) and trek to Kongma Dingma (4850m/ 15,912ft)|
|Day 13||Rest Day at Kongma Dingma (4850m/ 15,912ft)|
|Day 14||Trek to Seto Pokhari (5035m/16,520ft)|
|Day 15||Trek to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp South (5,650m/18,538ft) 5-6 hours trek|
|Day 16||Cross Amphu Lapcha (5,845m/19,177 ft) and trek to Island Peak Base Camp 5,200m/17,061ft 9 hours trek|
|Day 17||Rest day at Island Peak Base Camp (5,200m/17,061ft)|
|Day 18||Summit Island Peak (6,189m/20,306ft) and trek to Chukkung (4,730m/15,519ft)|
|Day 19||Trek to Pangboche (3930m) – 5 hours trek|
|Day 20||Trek to Namche (3,438m/11,280ft) 7-8 hours trek|
|Day 21||Trek to Lukla (2,800m/9,187ft) 6-7 hours trek|
|Day 22||Fly to Kathmandu (1,400m/4,593ft)|
|Day 23||Final Departure from Kathmandu|
- Transfer from Airport – Hotel – Airport: Car, Van, Hi-ace or Coaster in a private vehicle.
- Accommodation in Kathmandu, Four nights on Twin share Bed and Breakfast Basis
- Accommodation during Camping ; Meals during Eight nights Camping
- All standard meals(Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner) during the trekking
- English speaking experienced and certified Sherpa Guide (Govt. Trained/License Holder).
- All Camping Equipment required during the trek, sleeping tents/mattresses, kitchen tent, kitchen equipment
- Climbing rope, Ice screws, Snow bar
- Trekking cook, kitchen staff, Trek Sherpa and other support staff while Camping Days
- One Sherpa guide-assistant if group size is more than 4 Trekkers.
- Porters: One porter for Two Trekkers basis in all of our Climbing Trips
- Trek Staff costs including their salary, insurance, equipment, food and accommodation.
- Personal insurance for Nepalese staff.
- First aid medicine kit.
- Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing Permit
- Sagarmatha and Makalu Barun (Both) National Park Fee, TIMS permits & all required permits or Official Documentation.
- Round-Trip airfare between Kathmandu and Lukla (Airport Tax Included
- All government and local taxes.
- Mera Peak and Island Peak climbing certificates issued from the respective body of Nepal Government.
- All required Group Climbing Equipments and Gears
- Your Personal Travel Insurance.
- Nepal Entry Visa Fee.
- Beverages (drinks, mineral water,boiled water and beer).
- Tips for guide, porters and driver (customary).
- Any personal expenses not mentioned in above services.
- Additional night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early return from Trek (due to any reason) than the planned itinerary.